Rebuilding Coleman® Double Mantle Lanterns
Chapter Three: Reassembly
3.1 Reassemble the valve. Gather your valve body, valve stem, valve stem nut, packing retainer, spacer, the valve stem packing and the pieces of the fuel & air tube.
The smaller brass ring is the packing retainer. Look closely at it and you will see that one side is flat (Figure 1) while the other side is beveled inside (Figure 2). The beveled side will rest against the retainer lock (C-clip) still on your valve stem, while the flat side will rest against the valve stem packing.
Warning: The beveled side of the packing retainer must face the retainer stop on the valve stem.
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Figure 1 |
Figure 2 |
Slide the packing retainer over the back of the valve stem, beveled side first. Follow it with the valve stem packing, the spacer and then the valve stem nut (Figure 3).
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Figure 3 |
Gently insert the tip of the valve stem into the valve vody and turn it clockwise until it stops (Figure 4).
Slide the valve stem nut forward while turning it clockwise. Once you have the threads started, continue turning with your fingers until it becomes tight (Figure 5).
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Figure 4 |
Figure 5 |
Reinstall the metering rod and spring back in your fuel & air tube. Press down on the top of the metering rod down and ensure that it can travel freely. Insert the top of your fuel & air tube into the bottom of the valve body (Figure 6) and turn clockwise to tighten. Snug the fuel & air tube with a 3/8” end wrench.
Place the valve body in your bench vise. Tighten the valve stem nut 1 turn and stop. Turn the valve stem to open it, then close it, and take note of how much resistance the stem offers you. If it is very easy to turn with little or no drag, your valve stem nut is not yet tight. Tighten the valve stem nut another full turn and try again. Continue this process until you feel a good bit of drag turning the wheel.
Note: This is the safety check of the lantern’s retainer stop. It is critical that your lantern passes this test.
3.2 Test the valve stem retainer stop. Turn the valve wheel fully counterclockwise until it stops. Once you have reached this point, briefly try to turn it counterclockwise even farther. If it turns, your retainer stop has opened around the valve stem and needs to be repaired.
If it is “locked” and will not turn any further, the retainer stop is working properly. Return the stem to the fully clockwise (closed) position.
3.3 Install the valve. Insert the fuel & air tube down through the center hole in your fount and turn the valve clockwise to install (Figure 7). Turn it until it snugs up, then continue turning with your hand as far as you can without assistance from a tool. This should be about 90 degrees before its final resting position.
Note: The correct final position for the valve stem will be centered, with the pump on the right and the fuel filler on the left. This is called "clocking."
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Figure 6 |
Figure 7 |
Now place the fount upside-down in your bench vise, just as you did when removing the Valve. Use firm and even pressure as you slowly rotate the fount until the valve stem reaches the proper position.
Take the fount out of the vise, set it down and look at it from the front (Figure 8). Confirm that the valve stem is centered between the pump and the fuel filler. Return to the vise if minor adjustments are needed. Do not adjust your clocking based on an off-center decal. If you have any question, refer to the photos you took earlier.
Oops? If you bend the fount a little don't worry. Using the vice and apply pressure to the fount in the opposite direction of the bend.
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Figure 8 |
3.4 Install the check valve. If you left the check valve in your lantern earlier, you can bypass this step.
Figure 9 shows a new check valve, and that they come with an O-ring. If you are going to reuse your original check valve you may want to add an O-ring as it will seal the fount-to-valve connection much better. I went to Ace® Hardware and found a very close match. These O-rings are 1.5mm in width, I.D of 7mm and O.D. of 10mm and they are made of Viton.
Take your new (or cleaned) check valve and remove the air stem. Tilt the fount on its side and drop the check valve down into the cylinder. Use a flathead screwdriver to turn it clockwise until snug.
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Figure 9 |
3.5 Install the air stem. Lower the bottom end of the air stem into the pump plunger hole, then turn it clockwise to install in the check valve. Finger-tight is fine.
3.6 Install the pump. Gather your pump assembly to include the pump clip or screws. Ensure that all of the excess oil has been removed from in and on the pump (Figure 10).
Direct the bottom of the pump down into the cylinder, guiding the air stem into the hollow pump shaft (Figure 11). At the same time, start tucking the edges of the pump cup inside the cylinder. Ensure that the cup does not roll or catch an edge as you slide it down in the cylinder.
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Figure 10 |
Figure 11 |
Press the pump down in the cylinder. Carefully fit the pump cap over the edge of the pump cylinder, ensuring that the “oil” hole is above the shaft and that the screw/clip holes in the pump cap are aligned with those in the fount (Figure 12). Press down evenly and firmly to align the holes.
With the pump cap properly aligned, install the pump clip or screws to secure it. If you have a pump clip, insert one end in one hole, then use needle nose pliers to guide the other end into the second hole (Figure 13). It can be a tight fit so use caution, so you don't scratch anything.
Press the pump all the way to the bottom and rotate it clockwise until it stops.
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Figure 12 |
Figure 13 |
3.7 Install the fuel filler cap. Set your filler cap insert on the fount and then loosely install the filler cap over it. Before the cap gets tight, install the insert screw. Once you have it started, fully tighten down the filler cap and then take a screwdriver and tighten the insert screw. You will notice a space between the screw and the cap--this is normal.
3.8 Pressure test the fount. Fill the fount at least half-way with fuel, then install the filler cap and tighten it. Before starting, wipe off any fuel that may have spilled on the fount. Set it on a dry paper towel for testing. Keep your ears and eyes open for leaks.
Note: These tests assume that your fuel filler cap/gasket is new, or in very good working condition.
Place the valve wheel on the end of the valve stem and make sure the valve is fully clockwise. Rotate the pump handle one turn counterclockwise, grab the pump with your fingers and plug the hole with your thumb. Over-pressurize the lantern by giving it 50+ pumps then rotate clockwise to close the pump.
Listen for air escaping and watch for wet spots. Areas to look closely at:
Valve-to-fount junction. Watch for the slightest amount of dampness or bubbles from around the threads. If you note a leak you probably need to turn the valve in the fount one more turn.
Valve stem nut. Look and feel for dampness along the bottom of the valve stem and nut. A leak here indicates that the stem packing has not been sufficiently tightened.
Bottom of the fount. If you see ANY dampness on the bottom of the fount or on the paper towel, you need to find the source of the leak.
Warning: ANY hole or crack in the fount renders the lantern unsafe to use. Don't take the chance by trying to fix it with body putty or POR-15®. Get a replacement fount or set it on a shelf for display. DO NOT USE THE FOUNT.
3.9 Test the check valve. Turn the pump handle counterclockwise two full turns to open the check valve. Lightly rest your finger over the hole on the pump. Do not press down. What does the pump do?
If it does nothing, your check valve is working properly.
If it raises up, it is leaking. How fast it comes up tells you how bad the leak is. If it rises bottom to top in under 5 seconds, it is leaking too much to be safe.
Remove the pump and shoot some carburetor cleaner at the check valve to see if you can clean it better. If you cannot stop the leak, I recommend you remove the check valve.
If the pump rises slower than previously mentioned, you might be okay because the air stem is a positive stop (supplement) for the check valve.
You are the only one who can decide if your check valve is working well enough to be safe. The 5 second rule is only a guideline.
3.10 Install the Frame Rest. Get the frame rest and the plastic lid tool, if you made one earlier. Rest the lid on the fount to protect the finish. Slide the frame rest over the valve and set it on top of the lid tool.
3.11 Install the frame and tip cleaner. Sit your frame down on top of the frame rest. Align it so that the notch for the tip cleaner is left of the valve stem, and the vertical riser in the frame is directly over the valve stem (Figure 14).
Look at the tip cleaner body and take note of the where the frame nut is. Turn the nut clockwise to move it up to the top of the tip cleaner. Turn it as far as you can.
Take the tip cleaner and insert the bottom threads into the center hole of the frame. If your frame is properly aligned, that center hole will be directly over the valve. Carefully thread the tip cleaner into the valve and turn it clockwise. Thread it in as far as you can by hand (Figure 15).
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Figure 14 |
Figure 15 |
Now take your 1/2” box/end wrench and set the jaws on the flat of the tip cleaner, like you did to remove it. Have someone hold the fount or place it in a clamp. Tighten the tip cleaner into the valve until the hole for the cleaner stem is exactly aligned with the notch in the frame (Figure 16).
Use your tip cleaner stem to test this alignment. Thread the stem into the tip cleaner a few turns and look at how it aligns with the notch. The stem should not touch the frame (Figure 17).
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Figure 16 |
Figure 17 |
Gently remove the lid tool and step back to take a good look at your alignment. Because the frame nut has not yet been tightened, the frame and rest will be loose. Adjust the rest where it should be (valve stem centered in the hole) and align the frame so that the vertical strut is directly over the valve stem. Is the tip cleaner stem still perfectly aligned with the notch? Make minor adjustments as necessary by turning the tip cleaner, but don’t forget to re-insert the lid tool.
When you are satisfied, remove the protector tool and tip cleaner and tighten down the frame nut. Tighten it until you can no longer twist the frame left or right on the fount without excessive force. Ensure you are still aligned.
3.12 Install the eccentric block and tip cleaner stem. Gather the eccentric block, tip cleaner stem and the old generator you removed from the lantern.
Look at your eccentric block and notice that it has two notches, both on the same side. The notch with the hole indicates the top and it is used to hold the generator's tip cleaning rod. The bottom notch accepts the working end of the tip cleaner stem.
Use the crooked end of your old generator as a tool to lower the eccentric block into the tip cleaner with the notches facing forward (Figure 18). Hold the eccentric block like this while you insert the tip cleaner stem.
Install the tip cleaner stem into the front of the tip cleaner while you move the eccentric block up and down inside the tip cleaner. When the stem engages the eccentric block, it will begin to move up and down with the rotation of the tip cleaner stem (Figure 19). You might need to use your 3/8” end wrench to get the Tip Cleaner deep enough to engage the Eccentric Block.
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Figure 18 |
Figure 19 |
June 2022 Viewer Update: Gary Cobb from Oklahoma offered this suggestion for the folks who have problems holding the eccentric block with the old tip cleaner stem, due to shaking hands. Thank you Gary, the paper clip is brilliant!
Tighten the stem in the tip cleaner and check to see how hard it is to turn. If it turns easily with little or no resistance, give the packing nut about ¼ turn clockwise and try again. Continue until it takes just a little bit of effort to turn the tip cleaner stem.
3.13 Install the Burner. Insert the bottom of the air intake tube in the hole in the tip cleaner as shown in Figure 20. Press it straight down while twisting back and forth. The bottom of the tube must penetrate the tip cleaner and the frame before the threads will engage.
Once the threads engage the tip cleaner, rotate the burner clockwise. Give it three full rotations, then stop when the generator hole in the air intake tube is aligned directly over the eccentric block.
Turn the lantern so that the valve stem is facing away from you and look at the setscrew hole in the back of the tip cleaner. There is an identical hole in the air intake tube. If the air intake tube is positioned properly, you will be able to see both holes (Figure 21). The hole will be partially blocked if the tube is positioned too high or too low.
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Figure 20 |
Figure 21 |
Adjust the air intake tube up or down by rotating the burner and then install the set-screw in the back of the tip cleaner. Do not force the screw. It must pass through 2 pieces of metal as you tighten it. Move the burner slightly as you tighten the set screw and it will go all the way in.
3.14 Install the generator and jam nut. Unwrap your new generator and set it on your workbench, being careful to keep the internal parts tucked-up inside. Slide the jamb nut over the end of the generator. Turn the tip cleaner stem on your lantern so that the loop is in the “up” position.
Pull the crooked end of the cleaner rod out of the bottom of the generator about an inch. Insert the top of the generator into the hole in the air intake tube.
Insert the crooked end of the stem into the hole in the eccentric block, then rotate the tip cleaner to the “down” position to hold the stem in place (Figure 22). Slowly lower the generator tube down onto the tip cleaner, but DO NOT force it. You may need to rotate the generator a little to get it all the way down.
With the generator correctly sitting on the tip cleaner, thread the jamb nut on and snug it with a 7/16” end wrench.
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Figure 22 |
3.15 Install the valve wheel. Place the valve wheel over the end of the valve stem and ensure the stem is turned fully clockwise. Set the direction disc inside the recessed area of the wheel and then thread the screw into the end of the stem. Rotate the direction disc until the arrow is pointing up, then hold it there while tightening the screw.
Caution: Ensure you have a fire extinguisher close-by before proceeding!
3.16 Prepare for lighting. Take a pair of new mantles and install them on your lantern. Make sure you snip the ends of the strings off. Light them on fire and allow to burn completely.
Twist the pump handle counterclockwise and pump your lantern 30 times. Turn the pump handle clockwise to close. Observe the lantern for a few minutes before going any farther. Watch and listen for any indications of a leak as you did earlier.
Rotate the tip cleaner stem a few turns and leave the lever pointing down. Turn the valve wheel counter-clockwise one or two full turns and listen. You should hear the hissing of a small stream of air being released inside the burner. Within a few seconds the hissing should change to a “spitting” noise. Once you hear the spitting noise, turn the valve wheel off.
3.17 Light the lantern. Place a lit match or a lighter under the mantles. Turn the valve wheel about 1/4 turn counterclockwise to open the valve. The mantles will flame-up and dim and cough for a few moments, but then should start to burn steady, but perhaps dim.
Once the lantern is burning steady, slowly open the valve all the way. Give it additional pumps to fully pressurize it and increase the brightness. It should burn steady with little or no flickering or pulsing. Continue to watch for dampness on and around the lantern.
Congratulations! The final few parts of your lantern can now be installed. When you install the ventilator, don’t tighten the ball nut. Always leave it just a little loose so that it doesn’t chip the porcelain enamel.
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